It’s party time in Peru. The heads of state and important officials from Latin America, the Caribbean, and Europe are all here for several days of meetings. Tonight is said to be the social culmination of the summit, which during the day is devoted to heavy themes like poverty and global warming. Miraflores, where we live, has promised: “Esta noche no se duerme.” (You won’t sleep tonight).
We have a great vantage point from which to take in the party, since our apartment is right along Larco Avenue, the main street of Miraflores, just a block away from the municipal headquarters. Usually choked with traffic, Larco is a pedestrian walkway tonight, and a parade route. From our balcony we watched a long parade that included military bands, folk dancing, a huge potato float, two white stretch limos, and little dog trying to keep up with members of the Lima runners club.
The party, called “Noche en Blanco,” or Night in White, started at 8 o’clock tonight and the paper says it’ll go until 5 a.m. Apparently it’s a traditional all-nighter in cities like Rome and Paris and Madrid; here in Peru, this is a first. I’m a little worried about being able to sleep given what’s to come: a German electronic rock band and Peruvian experimental rock. Even now, at 10:30, we just had to close the door to the balcony to try to tamp down the sound of a brass band with many cymbols, a band that went north up Larco an hour ago and is now headed south.
The excuse for the party is the presence of the foreign dignitaries, but Limeños are packing the streets tonight. Most had off work yesterday and today, as the government called a special holiday.
Last night the ministers, congressional representatives and others went to the fountain park at Parque de la Reserva in Lima. It’s definitely on the short list of places to see while in the capital. One of the fountains there was recognized by the Guinness Book of Records as the highest in the world.
Over in Cusco, there’s another sign that Peru is emerging as an economic player on the world stage. Kentucky Fried Chicken and McDonald’s are going to open restaurants in the historic district, and Starbucks is said to be ready to rent a place that was once home to a traditional cafe, El Ayllu.
I’m reminded of the powerful protests we saw a few months ago in Cusco as people in the streets shouted and blocked roads, raging against foreign investors and the corruption of sacred historical sites. No doubt some people, even some Cuzquenos, will say that having a McDonald’s in town is a sign of Cusco’s maturity. But for many others it’s just another sign of global overpowering local, and of sandwiches that taste the same, whether they are served in Goshen or in Cusco.
